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The Down East Loop - Day 10

Demi-Downeast: Gnarly Fog Day Like ‘Hellish Video Game’ (Video)

Driving boat in the fog

Friends later told us that the fog that day was worst of the season. When we were recruited to do this Demi-Downeast loop, I said to Joanne, “Perfect. Maine in September means cool nights and clear days. The fog is worst in July.”

This year that truism got turned on its head. And it happened on the day that we were taking the boat from Rockland to Boothbay Harbor as part of loop that begins and ends in New York with the boat having been trailered from Quebec City to Bangor.

Boat in fog

We had waited until noon in case it would burn off, as it had the day before. But the fog stubbornly prevailed and remained as thick as Seattle clam chowder and just as unpalatable (Click to read the author’s rant on chowder. ▶)

Normal cruisers would not have left the dock at Land o’ Rocks that day, but deliveries have a different logic, tied to clock and calendar. We cast off from the fuel dock at Journey’s End Marine around 12:30 and headed to the Muscle Ridge Channel with a hundred feet of visibility.

Now, Downeast veterans will tell you: Muscle Ridge is full of gnarly, keel ripping obstructions, choked with lobster buoys and filthy with gnarly, hard-charging lobstermen who don’t seem to slow down one bit in zero visibility.

There are two things that take all the fun out of a transit—heavy seas and fog. At least with fog, there is an antidote in marine electronics. Our Cutwater 28, like all Cutwaters and Ranger Tugs, is outfitted with a suite of Garmin electronics. The radar performed very well without my having to attempt any tuning. Even the smallest vessel, a little wooden sailboat, showed as a return and objects within a couple hundred feet displayed, which is what you want in fog.

The dock at Boothbay Harbor

About those lobster buoys, as I mentioned, they were thick. This is where Garmin’s autopilot really came in handy. It’s got a neat dodge feature. With a quick press, the port and starboard arrows add or subtract a degree from your heading, but hold them down longer, and the boat begins to turn, and the longer you hold them the more dramatic the turn. Lift your finger off the button, and the boat goes back on course.

The Tugboat Inn
Cutwater’s crew was determined to eat lobster after having dodged a thousand pots.

The Down East Loop ▶