After the Fall
Editorial deadlines are a funny thing. As I write this, it's hovering around 90 degrees outside, and everyone is getting ready for July 4th. However, the topic of this story reminds me that as sure as death and taxes, winter is on the horizon. And for those of us in the colder climes, that not only means months of no boating, it also means storing our boats, and one of the first choices to consider is whether to store your boat wet or dry—on the water or on the hard. Each has its pros and cons.
Wet Storage
For wet storage to be practical, you've got to keep ice at bay. The two most common methods of doing this are bubblers and ice eaters. Both work on the same principle—warm water from the bottom is circulated to the surface, keeping the area above free from ice—and both work best where the water at the dock is deep enough to allow a plentiful source of warmer water.
Bubblers rely on compressed air pumped down to tubes laid on the bottom. Holes in these tubes allow the air to escape, and the rising air bubbles carry the warmer water upwards. Ice eaters, on the other hand, are waterproof electric motors suspended from the dock. Spinning propellers send the warmer water to the surface. Typically ice eaters are categorized by the horsepower of the electric motor, 3/4- and 1/2-hp being the most common.
The dock, of course, must also be substantial enough to survive the winter weather. One common problem with the wooden pilings used in many docks is "pile jacking," a situation where ice freezing around the dock pilings and rising with the tide actually pulls the pilings out of the bottom. Spring breakup and the resulting ice flows can also be dangerous for both docks and boats.
Boats left in the water can experience chafe on fenders and dock lines. Significant snowfalls are a particular problem: The roofs of covered slips can collapse under the weight of heavy, wet snow, and ice freezing in scuppers can prevent drainage and allow ice and snow to accumulate to dangerous levels.
Regardless of which storage option you choose, it's important to support the hull in many places.
On the other hand, boats are designed to be in the water, where the hull is evenly supported and there are no stresses from being placed on boat stands and blocks. Wooden boats in particular are often better off left in the water.
Because dry storage involves hauling the boat out and placing it in a yard, you will be at the mercy of the yard schedules concerning when the boat is pulled and launched and where in the yard she is located. Scheduling usually follows the acronym FOLI: First Out, Last In.
Proper blocking is essential for boat survival on the hard. Keel blocks need to be placed appropriately and enough boat stands used to stabilize the boat. The surface of the yard is also important. Keel blocks have been known to sink into soft ground during winter thaws as well as the spring thaw, adding stress where the hull contacts the stands. Too much, and deformation and even cracking can occur.
Boat stands should be chained together from side to side; even a modest wind can rock a boat and allow a stand to "walk" out from underneath to the point where the boat can actually fall off the stands. And make sure that no part of the winter cover is tied to any stand, as that can make the stands walk even faster.
Some people will place various kinds of heaters aboard to keep the interior warmer and mildew-free, but this can be dangerous if the surrounding materials overheat and start a fire. There are some marine heaters that are designed specifically for this purpose, but check to see if your yard allows them. Two of my favorites are GoldenRod, and BoatSafe.
Once you've solved the wet versus dry issue, the next one to deal with is covered versus uncovered.
Shrink-wrapping
Shrink-wrapping involves covering the boat with a plastic film that is strapped in place and then shrunk with a propane heater. You can have your yard or a shrink-wrap firm do the job for you or do it yourself with a shrink-wrap kit that's available at most marine stores and contains the film, propane heater, and even a how-to video. Often, several boaters will buy one kit and extra film to reduce costs.
Before shrink-wrapping begins, you'll need to pad all sharp corners with some carpet scraps or foam. Lower all folding antennas, and place a length of PVC pipe over them to prevent the shrink-wrap film from bonding to them.
Large cockpits or other open areas may require a support to prevent low spots where snow, ice, and water can accumulate. You'll also need to add a few vents after the wrap is in place to prevent mildew and condensation. Finally, you can add a zippered door if you want access to the boat's interior.
Covers and Tarps
Shrink-wrap isn't your only option, however. You can also have a fitted cover made for your boat. It won't be cheap, but it should last many years if cared for properly. You'll want to take the same preparations you would for shrink-wrapping, i.e. padding sharp objects.
Many people with fitted covers also place a tarp over the cover, tied securely down. These usually are the common blue tarps, which are both inexpensive and disposable and allow snow and ice to slide off easily while protecting the real cover from feathered friends.
We've all seen plastic tarps covering the boats in our boatyards. Available in a variety of sizes and three different materials, most are sheet plastic with a reinforcing grid fused in. The blue tarps are the most common, cheapest, and shortest-lived. The white tarp is a step up, while the silver/black tarps are the top performers; while still reinforced plastic, they typically hold up for several years because of their improved resistance to UV.
Frames
Most boats require some sort of frame to support a winter cover. Wood frames are the most common. Sometimes they're simply tacked together from cheap lumber and then torn down in the spring. Not so common are more elaborate structures that can be assembled and disassembled year after year.
PVC tubing is another framing option. Ingenious frames have been designed and built using a wide variety of this material, with joints secured with screws, allowing disassembly and storing in the spring.
Metal—typically electrical conduit—is another option that's more expensive but also stronger and more durable than wood. Several companies manufacture clamps and other accessories to make building such frames even easier.
Tie Downs
Whatever material you choose, you'll need to take care attaching the frame to the boat, both to keep from damaging the boat and to make sure the frame stays in place. Indeed, the method of tying your cover in place will greatly affect its longevity as well as your boat's. The cover needs to be tied securely in place to avoid storms and winds from getting under the cover or letting the cover flog the hull. A winter's worth of storms and wind chafe can extensively damage the hull of a fiberglass boat.
The cover should be anchored to the boat, not to the boat stands or blocking. Covers and tarps with grommets can have the tie-down ropes looped from grommet to grommet under the boat. Try to keep loose material at a minimum; it's a prime cause of chafe.
The cover can also be tied to weights, such as cinder blocks, placed on the ground or suspended from the grommets. Estimate how much weight you think you need, and then double it. The wind is stronger than you think.
Uncovered
There is a portion of the boating population that believes boats should be left uncovered. Looking at hull damage from chafe, mildew under sealed covers, and the general cost in time and money of the covers and associated hardware lends some credence to their position.
If you plan to leave your boat uncovered, you'll need to do some extensive preparation. You will have to provide drainage; a cockpit scupper can easily freeze shut, allowing ice and snow to build up in the cockpit and even causing structural damage. You'll also need to fasten and seal all exterior doors, hatches, and windows so they can't work open in a storm.
Winterizing
Whatever storage option you choose, winterizing is a must. It will protect your boat during the cold months and make spring commissioning much quicker and easier.
Start by changing the oil and filters in both engines and gensets and topping them off with properly diluted antifreeze. Stern drive lower units should also have their oil changed and any lubrication points serviced. You may also want to remove the stern drive props and grease the propshaft splines. Where practical, remove electronics and batteries.
Next you'll want to drain your water heater and add antifreeze to the fresh-water system until it flows out of every outlet. Empty all drawers and lockers and leave them and all interior doors open to facilitate air movement. Place mildew and dehumidifying bags throughout the cabin.
This is a good time to wash and wax the hull; the wax will protect the hull from snow and ice, as well as grit and bird droppings. Then button her up and put her to bed for the winter.
Selecting the proper method of winter storage depends on a great many variables. Discussion with owners of similar boats will give both good and bad stories about options in your area. My choice is neither in-water or on-land, but rather being safely tucked in a snug anchorage in the Bahamas, where they can't even spell antifreeze.
