While the briny tang of a raw oyster slipping across the tongue is a distant memory come summertime (for those who still abide by those rules), it’s high time to turn your thoughts to other seasonal delectations. Enter the softshell crab for an all-too-short visit: Flavor and texture are at their peak from now until August, and, as usual, the simplest recipe is the best with the freshest seafood. Buy yourself a good sharp pair of kitchen shears when you pick up your crabs—there’s something to be said for preparing them for the pan yourself. Soak them in milk, dredge them in flour, season with salt and pepper, and fry them in butter (with a splash of olive oil). And repeat. Until August.