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Maintenance

Put to the Test Page 2

Maintenance Q & A — October 2002 - Part 2
Maintenance Q & A — October 2002
By Capt. Ken Kreisler


Put to the Test
Part 2: Masking tape, epoxy, and more
 
 More of this Feature
• Part 1: Starter Solenoid, Misfire
• Part 2: Epoxy, Masking Tape, and More

 Related Resources
• Maintenance Q&A Index

Does it really matter what kind of masking tape I use for my paint job? A.L., via e-mail
Yes. Masking tapes are manufactured in various grades, and buying an inferior one may jeopardize your work, causing you to waste time and money by redoing the job.

The wrong masking tape may have poor solvent resistance or glue, resulting in paint “creep” under it, causing a poor line. When taking the tape off, too much adhesive can remain, causing you to do extra work in removing it. In addition, any adhesive not removed will create problems with later applications.

Regardless of its quality, tape that is left on too long can actually bond to the surface, making removal difficult. This usually results in damage to the surface area and, once again, having to do the job over.

While you may experience sticker shock at the price of some masking tapes, in the long run you’re better off with the superior product. Check with your paint manufacturer for its recommendations.

I was working with epoxy and noticed that the mixture became very hot and cured much too quickly. What did I do wrong? L. P., via e-mail
You may have mixed too large a batch, the ambient temperature you were working in was too warm for the hardener, or your application was put on too thick. Try mixing smaller batches or transfer the mixture to a container with more surface area after mixing. Your product manufacturer will most likely suggest using a hardener designed for warmer temperatures. And finally, in those areas that require a thick application, fill in with several thin layers.

The starter solenoid on my small diesel engine clicks, but the starter does not run. How do I troubleshoot this problem? M.G., via e-mail
First clean and tighten all starter and solenoid connections. Make sure all the terminal eyelets are securely fastened to the wire strands and are not corroded. If you find any corrosion, make sure you thoroughly clean it off. Then try starting the engine.

If that proves a dead end, next remove the battery terminal clamps. Clean them as well as the battery posts. Reinstall the clamps and tighten them securely.

If the starter still does not run, connect your 12-volt house battery to the starter battery with jumper cables. If it’s a no-go, the starter will have to be replaced. Depending on its condition, you might want to have it rebuilt and kept aboard as a spare. If you do so, wrap the starter in an oil-soaked towel to keep any corrosion from getting at it.

Need help with a maintenance problem? Write to Maintenance Q & A, Power & Motoryacht, 260 Madison Ave., 8th Fl., New York, NY 10016. Fax: (917) 256-2282. e-mail: ken_kreisler@primediamags.com. No phone calls, please.

Previous page > Starter Solenoid, Misfire, and more > Page 1, 2

This article originally appeared in the October 2002 issue of Power & Motoryacht magazine.

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