Maintenance
Soot Case
|
Maintenance
Q & A — September 2001 By Capt. Ken Kreisler Soot Case |
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| How to reduce
diesel exhaust residue, the difference between electrolysis and galvanic corrosion,
and more. |
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What can I do to
reduce the soot buildup on my transom from my diesel's exhaust?
J.H., via e-mail First
make sure you are keeping a regular preventive-maintenance regimen when
it comes to both fuel and oil filters as well as your air filter. If you
have twin engines, do all oil and filter changes at the same time. You
may want to consider installing a Walker Fuelsep for your fuel system.
According to Walker, the system can improve fuel economy and engine performance
while reducing soot. As shown
in the accompanying diagram, the Fuelsep is installed between your boat's
existing fuel-water separator and your engine. Acting like a minirefinery,
the unit purifies the fuel one last time before it enters your engine.
The
unit requires no maintenance, will not clog, and is rated for a 5,000-hour
life. For more information contact Walker Phone: (818) 252-7788
or at www.walkerairsep.com. Is
there a difference between electrolysis and galvanic corrosion?
S.D., via e-mail Technically,
electrolysis involves only one metal and a major change occurring in an
electrolyte, a liquid with chemical properties that make it capable of
conducting an electrical current. An example would be when a lead-acid
battery discharges and produces a major change in the concentration of
the electrolyte, in this case the battery acid. Galvanic
corrosion involves dissimilar metals where the major change occurs in
the metals, not the electrolyte, which in this case is the water surrounding
the boat. Consider what happens to your bronze props and stainless steel
shaft when immersed in sea water, an excellent electrolyte. Mechanically
connected, they create what is essentially a battery in which current
flows from the bronze (possessing a high electrical potential) to the
stainless steel (possessing a relatively low electrical potential). The
bronze becomes the anode and the shaft the cathode, resulting in a deterioration
of the bronze with the electrolyte remaining unchanged. Hence, no electrolysis. Sacrificial
zincs that are galvanically active and designed to corrode more easily
do, of course, protect your running gear against galvanic corrosion. They
should be checked periodically for deterioration and replaced if necessary.
There's
no cure for this but to completely strip the entire antifouling application.
Once the paint is removed, a light sanding is necessary, followed by a
thorough cleaning with a solvent recommended by the manufacturer of the
new paint you will be using. The bottom should now be ready for reapplication. Next page > Q & A continued > Page 1, 2 |
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This article originally appeared in the June 2003 issue of Power & Motoryacht magazine.















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