Caulk Talk Page 2
2: Picking the right caulking product for the job, and more.
By Capt. Patrick Sciacca — April 2001
you determine what needs to be recaulked, how do you know which sealant
to use? Picking the wrong product not only can be inconvenient, but also
can cost you big money. For instance, Tilders says that for areas below
the waterline, silicone is difficult to use because it creates large beads
that may not cure correctly. Instead he advises using a polyurethane,
vinyl, or polysulfide sealant for these areas. Polyurethane caulks are
tremendously effective, but because their bond is so strong, they can
be difficult to remove, and trying to do so can result in damage to the
materials to which the sealant adheres, especially wood and fiberglass.
For that reason polysulfide caulk is the favorite when working with a
teak deck; it is the most chemically resistant, least likely to break
down from exposure to teak cleaners and oils, and can be relatively easily
removed when you need to. (As with most surfaces, teak decks must be extremely
clean or the caulking will not adhere to them.)
plastics such as ABS and Lexan. Many kinds of sealants could fit the bill
here, but there are some you should avoid. Polyurethane and polysulfide
caulkings could fracture the plastic over time and leave you with a more
expensive proposition then you originally envisioned.
Industries (978) 281-0440. Fax: (978) 283-2619. www.rule-industries.com.
This article originally appeared in the May 2003 issue of Power & Motoryacht magazine.