A Change in Element

Maintenance Q & A — April 2005
By Capt. Ken Kreisler

A Change in Element
Basic maintenance for a bolt-on oil filter, a clogged carburetor, and more.
 More of this Feature
• Oil filter maintenance, and more
• Water pump failure, and more
• PMY Tries... Taylor Made Instrument Covers

 Related Resources
• Maintenance Q&A Index

This is my first diesel-powered boat. What is involved in replacing the element for a bolt-on canister oil filer? J.G., via e-mail
As you have to drain the filter before replacing the element, place a suitable container underneath the filter to catch the oil. In addition, have a clean bucket nearby to place the shell and element in as you work. You may also want to place an absorbent pad under the container, just in case.

Begin by removing the drain plug from the canister shell and allowing the oil to drain. When the oil flow is down to a few drops, use a clean rag in one hand to support the outer shell while you unscrew the center stud and withdraw the shell, old element, and stud assembly. Place these in the clean bucket. Remove all seals and gaskets, making sure there is no old material left; while they may appear to be in good shape, it’s better to replace them when changing the element. Have the new ones ready for installation.

Next clean the interior of the filter shell as well as inside the cap that holds the shell. If there is dirt under here, it will get into the lube system when you start up the engine. Once the filter shell is clean, replace the center stud in the shell, and position the new filter element inside. Tighten the stud according to the engine manufacturer’s specifications. Be careful. Too tight and you could damage the gasket; too loose and you’ll have a leak. Install the drain plug in the base, and add the proper oil as required to bring the level to the full mark on the dipstick. Start your engine, and check for leaks. Stop the engine, and wait about 20 minutes for the oil to drain from the engine’s various parts. Add oil as required to bring the level to the proper mark on the dipstick.

My tender’s two-stroke carbureted outboard hesitates and almost stalls before recovering. What is causing this? P.N., via e-mail
Check for a dirty or clogged main jet in the carburetor, water in the fuel, or too lean a mixture of gasoline and oil. You may also want to examine your spark plugs for incorrect gapping, wear, and corrosion.

Next page > Part 2: Freshwater pump failure, and more > Page 1, 2, 3

This article originally appeared in the April 2005 issue of Power & Motoryacht magazine.

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