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Following breakfast
the next morning, we headed north on the River Schelde toward our first
lock. The canal system surrounding Ghent, our destination, is one of the
most complex in Western Europe. There is a bypass canal, or ringvaart,
that circles two-thirds of the city and connects the upper and lower parts
of the River Schelde, the River Leie, the Leie Canal, the Brugge Canal,
and the Terneuzen Canal. During the days that followed, we would travel
many of these waterways as we headed north to Ghent, west to Brugge, and
southeast to Deinze.
Powered by a single
140-hp diesel, Vaargetijden cruises at a leisurely 7 knots. Combine
that pace with the tranquil landscape–rich, green hues of the trees
lining the river, interrupted only occasionally by a bicyclist or two–and
it’s nearly impossible not to relax. Within minutes Holland, three
guests of the Karremans, and I were all silent–either reading or
snoozing or just enjoying a cup of coffee and the view.
About four hours later,
we passed through the ringvaart and entered the River Leie, where local
limits forced us to cut our speed to a crawl–2 knots. The landscape
also changed. No longer lone travelers on the river, we shared the brackish
waterway with many pleasureboats tied up along the banks. As we made our
way to the Ghent Centrum Yacht Club, buildings seemed to pop up out of
nowhere. We were suddenly in a city, and I was anxious to explore.
I crossed St. Michael’s
Bridge to enter the town, and my senses were bombarded by the strong earthy
smell of the fairly stagnant river, sights of the centuries-old architecture,
and the temptation of chocolate (available at nearly every crossroad).
I walked the city’s central streets, window shopping along the way,
until I arrived at the impressive St. Bov’s Cathedral.
Home of Jan van Eyck’s
masterpiece Adoration of the Lamb, the cathedral also houses a museum
of church artifacts in a crypt-like space below. After I left the serenity
of the space, I continued on my self-guided tour of the area’s 14th-century
architecture. My outing included a stop at the 300-foot-tall clock tower,
a stroll past the castle’s Graventeen, and a chat with a chocolatier
in one of the city’s many homemade confection shops.
Walking back to the
boat, I could not resist the temptation of the many outdoor cafes along
the river. I slipped into a chair, ordered a beer–a Leife blond–and
passed an hour watching cyclists speed by. When I arrived back onboard,
Olga was getting ready to serve dinner.
Meals onboard Vaargetijden
are a filling and entertaining affair. Olga spends each afternoon preparing
a three-course meal, which on our trip includied many Belgian specialties
such as cauliflower soup and an endive entree. The Karremans dine with
their guests, a practice which often results in chats lasting well into
the evening. After we watched the sunset (at 10 p.m.!) on the deck, I
headed below. Brugge was on the next day’s itinerary, and it would
be a 30-mile (about six-hour) trip.
A friend who recently
visited Belgium had told me to skip Brussels in favor of a visit to this,
the capital of West Flanders, instead. And after setting foot on my first
cobblestone street, I could see why. The facades of 13th- and 14th-century
buildings, combined with the click-clock of horses and buggies carrying
passengers around the city’s center, made me feel like I had been
transported into a Vermeer painting. Holland and I explored the city’s
late medieval and early Renaissance treasures for several hours. Stops
in the center square as well the courtyard of a convent founded in 1245
highlighted an afternoon topped off by several chocolate truffles and
a couple of pints.
On our last day onboard
Vaargetijden, we spent a few hours in the city of Deinze, where
the Museum van Deinze en Leistreek houses the work of many renowned artists
of the Flanders area. I had the paintings of Emiel Claus, Devant La Glace,
and Gustav Van de Woestyne almost to myself. (A group of schoolchildren
were the small museum’s only other visitors.) After the brief stopover,
we cruised the River Leie for about 2 1Ú2 hours, until we arrived at the
small town of St. Martens Latem.
St. Martens is a quaint,
upscale place where art galleries and brasseries dominate the main streets.
I can think of no other place where you can pass by a windmill, farm,
and four-star restaurant all during a 10-minute bike ride. The town was
a fitting last stop for a trip that had been characterized by a slow pace,
pastoral scenery, and French-inspired Belgian cuisine.
I took a stronger appreciation
for European architecture (and Belgian beer) back with me to New York,
and about two weeks after I had arrived home–just when the memories
of the cities I had visited started to fade–a coworker told me of
the Vermeer exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. A Saturday perusing
the Dutch master’s paintings transported me back to northern Belgium
and the streets I had strolled in. For a few hours, I was in 17th-century
Belgium instead of 21st-century New York City. How’s that for looking
at your hometown differently?
De 4 Vaargetijden charters
yearlong. A midweek trip is approximately $300; full week is approximately
$497. Prices are per person based on eight-person occupancy and include
food, fuel, and dockage.
De 4 Vaargetijden
Phone: (32) 477 69 63 62. Fax: (32) 477 69 64 62. www.de4vaargetijden.com.
U.S. Office: Forever
Young Travel Phone: (954) 989-0156. Fax: (954) 989-0163.
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