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The Greek charter market
has long been an entity unto itself, a closed sector in which foreign-flagged
yachts were not allowed to carry paid guests. As in any marketplace that
lacks outside competition, the players had the luxury of occasionally
choosing profit over performance. This led to the existence of a Greek
charter fleet with more than a hundred crewed motoryachts, but with only
a few dozen that offer the quality and service the worldwide charter industry
demands.
Today, Greek law is
changing. The first foreign-flagged yachts going through the paperwork
process should be registered for legal charter in time for this summer’s
season (and the Olympic Games in Athens). With them, these yachts will
bring a level of competition destined to bury the lesser performers in
the Greek fleet.
On the other hand, a
few Greek charter boats will thrive—those that have spent the past
few years preparing for the onslaught with refits, crew training, and
the adoption of Western business practices and contracts. Within this
select group, Oh Que Luna is widely regarded as among the very
best. She offers everything you would expect on a yacht in her price range
in virtually any port worldwide, along with a crew that uses local knowledge
to make the most of each charter.
The boat, which served
as our host courtesy of her owner, carries five crew to tend to eight
guests. These are not the Colgate-smile kids so often seen washing hull
sides in the Caribbean; these are hardworking, middle-aged men with wives
and children who consider yachting their careers. Only Capt. Vangelis
Alexakis and steward Rudy Punongbayan speak English, but everyone working
aboard Oh Que Luna knows how to smile and say, “Is okay?” The
chef asked us this after almost every meal. We were always pleased, but
if he didn’t get a wide grin in response, he became sad and promised
to work harder for us the next time.
All meals are served
family style, which allows you to try new things in varying portions.
You might recognize the feta cheese slices and grilled octopus tentacles
on your plate, but the tasty sadziki (known over here as tzatziki,
a combination of yogurt, cucumber, and garlic) and mousaka main dish (like
eggplant parmesan) will surprise any taste buds unaccustomed to creative
cooking. Lunches, in keeping with Greek tradition, are huge, with smaller
breakfasts and dinners.
Next page >
Part
3: We were enchanted, and we were charmed. > Page 1,
2, 3, 4, 5
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